Thirty feet below the ice and slush and overcast bleakness, the lake trout were playing—or so it seemed. My buddy Tom and I had decided to attempt a north to south traverse of Ontario’s Quetico Provincial Park on skis in early March, but found our progress so slow because of deep snow in the woods and feet-soaking slush on the lakes that we were forced to change our plans and head west across sprawling Pickerel Lake, take out a week later at the Park Headquarters at Nym Lake—and call home for a ride south. On Pickerel, there would be a bit less slush, shallower snow due to the wind, and we’d have ample time to fish. Two weeks later, the travel conditions would be perfect, but not now.